Our Casa

Our place was the yellow balcony and little white room above it.  Houses built on houses. Ours was the 4th and 5th floor of this building. This is also a typical path in Yelapa. None are straight. In the village there are houses and paths, very little room for anything else. Some of the more well-to-do may have a little yard. but most just use their steps and stoops for plants and drying clothes.

Inside the entrance to the right. Those steep stairs went up to our bedroom. The door ahead was to the bathroom.

Inside the entrance to the left was the kitchen. It had a bar made of the most beautiful slab of rosewood where we ate breakfast. Restaurants typically don’t open until 9am so if you wanted coffee and breakfast before then, you had to cook it yourself! The kitchen was fully stocked with everything necessary to cook.

In front of the kitchen was the dining area. It had a table which we used once but it was terribly tippy so we moved to the bar. The table became a catch all place for our junk!

Across from the dining area was the living room/2nd bedroom. The couch was a futon with a fairly uncomfortable mattress. We used it our first night there since coming down those stairs in the middle of the night for a pee looked intimidating. We used the mosquito netting the first night too. After that… not so much!

At night, the beam in the center of the room became alive with these critters which I assume were geckos.

During the day, we had a plant on our deck that attracted bees… lots and lots of bees!

The rest of our stay, we slept in the bedroom on the 5th floor. It had big windows that faced toward the harbor. There were big sliding panels with sheets of plastic on them to help during winds and rain. The opening on the right of the picture was access to the roof and from there… straight down 5 stories to the jungle floor.

The other side of the room (behind the camera) was another balcony with a table and chairs. It was beautiful to step out here and see the stars at night which were huge!

Our casa came complete with this critter…

An Iguana…

His feet were the scariest. Thankfully he kept them pulled in most of the time. He really didn’t bother us. Scared us the first night he clattered on the fiberglass roof either coming or going out for a quick meal. This was the first time we were aware of him.

My mother will laugh… this girl, who up until she left home, called her mom into any room with a spider in it to kill it before she’d go back in! Now I sleep with an iguana over my head and it doesn’t bother me! We didn’t even use the mosquito netting upstairs. Too hot!

This is the bodega they provided to lock up valuables. The entrance (red door) was an iron door with bars on the top part but no windows. Actually, other then the sliding protective panels with plastic, there was no glass windows anywhere in the casa. You lived with nature.

The door to our bathroom. Instead of having a mirror in front of the sink to look at your ugly mug, there was this gorgeous view of the jungle. At night I would watch exotic birds hopping through the tree branch to roost.

Our shower had an equally lovely view of the bay!

We had the most lovely view off the main room balcony. In the morning we were treating to fantastic sunrises coming up right in the “Vee”. Afternoons were bright and cheery like this and after dark the village lit up with little lights of various colors and the twinkling anchor lights of the boats in the bay. The locals used a lot of Christmas lights for ambience.

The casa was a wonderful part of our adventure. It was well equipped with lots of modern conveniences but it also connected you with the Mexican world just outside your door. No cloistered, hot, airless hotel room where you run the AC to provide comfort. Just the gentle ocean breezes bringing wafts of fresh air fused with the aromas of the village.

Posted in Sherlene's Writings | Leave a comment

Arriving in Yelapa

An 8-hour flight and an exciting ride in this taxi with the cute flowers on the dash, we were deposited at Playa Los Muertos to hop aboard the water taxi to Yelapa. Exciting because there are no posted speed signs and the traffic seems to just whiz along. Our driver had some fairly creative maneuvers that had both my eyebrows jumping!

Puerto Vallarta Taxi

I brought  sandwiches and fruit for us to eat on the way which they promptly threw away upon arrival at customs! So we were hungry when we got to the beach. With an hour to wait for the water-taxi we parked in this cool little beach-side restaurant for a little refreshment.

Refreshment after our flight

Our waiter was really great and spoke english fairly well. He was excited about being put into my blog. Now I wish I’d written down his name. :/ He let us try out our very limited spanish on him and gave us some new words.

Our Waiter at a PV beachside restaurant

We ordered chips and salsa, expecting the americano-sized basket. What we got was this little dish with 15 or so chips, salsa and some burn-up-your-mouth red sauce! I happen to like hot but even I thought this was pretty spicy!

That red sauce really lit up my eyes!

Finally on the taxi, leaving PV behind. So excited to finally be on our way, I didn’t want to miss a thing so plopped down on the front of the boat on a hard bench seat. After 45-minute ride bumping up and down, I learned the FRONT of the boat is NOT where you want to be!

On the water taxi, leaving the big city behind!

Coming into Yelapa, it was a little overcast but the colors leapt out right away. This was the pier where we got off. From this point it was just a short walk up to our Casa. Fry, the caretaker’s son, met us and showed us the way.

Our first glimpse of Yelapa

We arrived about 4:30pm and were pretty exhausted so we to a short nap before we ventured out for dinner. This next picture was the little path that led to the bottom of the zillion-steps to our casa. There were a few lamp-light’s in town but I took a flashlight with me every night because there were plenty of unlit paths.

Being a small village, at no time did I ever feel unsafe. By the time we left, I had started to recognize faces around the village and they knew us back.

The path from our casa.

There is a space of time, when you first arrive at a new place like this, where everything is new, unfamiliar and seems a little overwhelming, especially with the language barrier. But by the 2nd day I knew my way around the village and had started naming streets! We used a little spanish phrasebook and learned lots of new words and were doing ok by the end of 8 days.

Posted in Sherlene's Writings | Leave a comment

Yelapa, Jalisco, Mexico ~ January 2012

Note: Yelapa pictures posted this weekend

My five decade birthday arrived hot on the heals of the New Year. I had convinced my honey to spend it in Mexico, just the two of us, and what a grand and wonderful way to celebrate 50 years!

Yelapa Sunrise

This was my 2nd trip to old Mexico. It was so good to return to this country after a 34-year absence. At that time it wasn’t so hated and feared and all you needed was a birth certificate to re-enter the US. My parents let me go on a chaperoned high school band trip with 65 other adolescence and a handful of adults. Can you imagine! It was a memorable trip and one I never recovered from longing to return.

Lots of people have asked the question, “how did you pick Yelapa as a destination?”. The brief version… I was on Google maps doing a virtual tour of the Bay of Banderas. Moving around the shoreline, I stumbled on this little bay off of the big bay and this little village called Yelapa jumped out at me. After reading up, it sounded like just my kind of place. No high-rise hotels, no cars, not many tourists… you get the idea.

A Yelapa Bench

The local Yelapians are an indigenous people that have been given total rights over their land, as it has been in their possession for generations. They have not let highways or roads of any kind bring easier access and have kept the big hotels/condos away. It is primarily a fishing village, however tourism does take a close second. However, unless you have heard about it from friends or stumble on somehow it as I did, you may never find it.

The only reliable access is by water-taxi out of Puerto Vallarta. A 45-minute high-speed ride across the bay at $100 pesos/pp (more if your a gringo on your first visit). They start up about 9am and the last boat out of Yelapa is at 4:30pm. If you miss that boat you’ll have to dig deeper in your pockets for a room to stay in as the locals know you’re on their hook!

La Playa

The houses, palapa’s (bungalow type houses with grass roofs) and various little businesses all made of brick or cement, sprawl on the south east side of the bay with little streets (if you can call them that) curling around buildings intricately, at times right through the middle of a home! A shortcut from the pier to our casa lead right through a covered area where on one side was the laundry facilities right in the open for the home across the path. Another was a bathroom (enclosed in a small shed-like room) with a kitchen on the outside with just a roof overhead and a jungle of plants on one side. They make the brick down by the big river that flowed on the north side of the main village, separating it from the big Playa (beach) and tourist area. There were homes on both sides but the further upriver, the poorer the people.

A typical Yelapa restaurant

Restaurants are plentiful and the food delicious! We tried to eat at a different restaurant every night. There was this one we HAD to re-visit for some of the best fish taco’s. Most all of them feature Mexican cuisine. We just found one that brought more of the international flavors to the area. There may have been more but we had a hankering for taco’s pescada (fish taco’s) so we tried as many of them as we could! BTW – don’t order fish taco’s at a bakery! :)

There are a LOT of ex-patriots in Yelapa. Something like 30% of the village is made up of gringos from various places but mostly US and Canada. It’s the kind of place the appeals to those that want to get away from phones, TV, computers and live simply. It’s also a wonderful vacation spot and some of the gringo’s living there have their families down for the winter months. Gringo’s can’t own land in Mexico so they lease from their Mexican neighbors and can build either on top of an existing home or lease and build on the land. It seems to be a win-win because the landowners get to make a little money and the gringo’s get so live in a tropical paradise with some really cool people!

Our Bedroom Iguana

Speaking of paradise, that longing inside of me, the itch that just needed scratched? To see the abundant flora, flowing over walls, growing out of the cracks and sidewalks. And the fauna, creatures I’ve never before seen flying overhead and perching in trees; the lizards that come out at night all over the walls, not to mention the little bedroom voyeur that hardly ever moved the entire time we were there (an iguana about 30” long)!

Bougainvillea

I was so thrilled to see brilliant bougainvillea in abundance in purple, reds, blue and white! Poinsettias growing in the forest. Palms everywhere! Lots of banana, coconut and who-knows what other kinds. Papaya and mango trees. We even saw a breadfruit tree. Lots of banyans with their weird twisted roots, with gigantic web-like veins that form the massive trunk.

We saw the Great Kiskadee  preening in the afternoon sun while 2 wild parrots (Guacamayos) having a lovers quarrel overhead, completely unalarmed to have a witness. And those birds we called terra-dactyls always seen flying over the bay? Well they were Frigate birds! We saw this white bird with feet so bright-yellow he looked all dressed up to go dancing (later discovered it was a Snowy Egret). There were lots of Black Vultures hanging about cleaning up after the fisherman cleaned their catch. There were so many I don’t even remember. Oh… Pelicans! Lots! On our boat taxi ride back to Puerto Vallarta there was a huge rock, white on top, covered with Pelicans… the white was sun-bleached guano!

La Cascada

There were 2 different rivers each with waterfalls flowing from the mountains rising up behind the village. One was called “La Cascada” and the other…. “Upper Cascada”! La Cascada was just a 10-minute walk through the village. The path leading up was paved brick and cement and lined with vendors selling “local” stuff :) . Most of the stuff had tags of “made in China” or “Indonesia”! There were couple pavilions at the base of the falls to rest and enjoy a refreshment from the little bar set up there. You could also jump in for a quick dunking (I say quick because the water was pretty chilly!).

The Upper Cascada is quite a hike up the main river path which becomes dusty and rocky as soon as you leave the main village. There are homes scattered all the way up this river. There was one enterprising gringo that set up a restaurant halfway up this path to take advantage of weary hikers. The path wasn’t easy in some spots especially nearer the falls. In fact, at times it just disappeared. We spent a considerable amount of time here where we swam in water that was slightly warmer then the previous falls. It was beautiful and peaceful with only birds to keep company. Not as many people venture up here as the hike takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours one way and most day tourists just don’t have that kind of time.

Yelapa Children

I have had great difficulty trying to capture our experience. It was a wonderful place, full of really friendly people, always with a smile and an “hola” no matter the time of day. The streets were swept clean every day and even with the lack of the common conveniences we think we can’t live without, they did and did well. It gave me a moments pause to see what is it in my life I can do more simply? There are no pretensions there. What you see is what it is and who they are. Simple, clean, friendly people living life well who seem pleased you are there with them.

Posted in Sherlene's Writings | 1 Comment

Johnathon ~ 2 years

Ok… so he was 2 in November! I know a little bit about having a holiday birthday. Especially around the winter holidays!

Posted in Sherlene's Writings | 1 Comment

Christmas 2011

Back from Paradise…

Christmas eve our house joyfully exploded with kids, grandkids, family and good friends! The kids were all dressed up having just come from Christmas eve service and they were so cute!

While they were all spruced up we tried…. and tried…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But the best picture we got turned up minus a little man!

Doug started rug skidding the littlest ones on our hardwood floor.

They loved it! Jordyn joined the sled and Jacob pulling.

Doug bowed out and Jacob and Jordyn started pulling the little ones. Who knew a rug could be so much fun!

Happy Grandma!

And Grandpa joined me

 

 

 

Posted in Sherlene's Writings | 2 Comments